Question about Reba RL 29" fork and also my brakes

[zachjowi]

Hello everyone, I'm new here so I thought I should join and also ask my questions. I have a 2011 Trek Hi-Fi Plus that I have just started riding out at Sunderbruch and the most recent time I looked down and discovered that my fork seemed to be missing a part. Does anyone know what the part missing is or for? I found this picture of what it was but not sure where to get it since SRAMs webpage doesn't really have a parts list for it.


http://www.probikeshop.com/rockshox-...011/71482.html

Another question I have is about my disc breaks. There are Avid Juicy 3 brakes on my bike and when I first got it they squealed and then after riding the noise went away sometimes and lately the front has been screaming while the rear is relatively quiet. Is this just a common problem with these? I'm assuming if I went to some better breaks besides these entry level the noise would go away?

Thanks

[Jazn]

Juicy brakes are notorious for being noisy, you could try some organic compound pads and some people have tried different brand rotors. Here's a thread on MTBR that you can read through and see what other people have tried. Check the dates on the posts, some of them are pretty old.

http://forums.mtbr.com/brake-time/ju...ad-425196.html

I'd take your fork to a bike shop and see what they can tell you.

[Gunchie]

Hello everyone, I'm new here so I thought I should join and also ask my questions. I have a 2011 Trek Hi-Fi Plus that I have just started riding out at Sunderbruch and the most recent time I looked down and discovered that my fork seemed to be missing a part. Does anyone know what the part missing is or for? I found this picture of what it was but not sure where to get it since SRAMs webpage doesn't really have a parts list for it.

Link to Spare Parts PDF

I believe you need part 11.4015.544.090 Compression Damper, Motion Control DNA, Crown Adjust - 2012 Revelation RL (includes compression knob). It is number 19 on the Reba 2009-2011 chart. If that's the case, looks like it's just a screw. I'm not 100% on that though. I have FOX on my bikes. I would send the pic to SRAM customer service and they could tell you for sure.

Another question I have is about my disc breaks. There are Avid Juicy 3 brakes on my bike and when I first got it they squealed and then after riding the noise went away sometimes and lately the front has been screaming while the rear is relatively quiet. Is this just a common problem with these? I'm assuming if I went to some better breaks besides these entry level the noise would go away?

Even the most expensive brakes could have squealing issues from time to time. This is caused by brake contamination when you have foreign particles on the brakes rotor and brake pads. Put some rubbing alcohol on a clean rag and wipe down your rotors and pads. If they are still making noise take some fine sand paper and lightly sand the brake pads. Clean with rubbing alcohol once again after sanding. If it's still squealing, buy new brake pads and make sure to break them in. Breaking in the brake pads just means going for a ride or two without a lot of hills and lightly breaking often during the ride. Hard breaking on new pads could cause them to gloss over and not be nearly as effective.

Hope that helps.

[Gunchie]

Juicy brakes are notorious for being noisy, you could try some organic compound pads and some people have tried different brand rotors. Here's a thread on MTBR that you can read through and see what other people have tried. Check the dates on the posts, some of them are pretty old.

http://forums.mtbr.com/brake-time/ju...ad-425196.html

I feel I should throw out a MTBR disclaimer here. Take everything with a grain of salt when it comes to MTBR. The problem is that a lot of what is posted is by people who have no idea what they are talking about, but love to here themselves babble and think they know what they are talking about so they post all the time. Then people who are looking for answers read these posts and give positive rep to them because although the post may sound good, is completely wrong, but the people giving positive reps don't know this or they wouldn't be looking for an answer on MTBR in the first place. So in the end, MTBR makes babbling idiots look like they are reputable when they aren't which is a huge confusion to people who looking for an answer. Ever once in awhile, someone who does know what they are talking about posts and at which time the posts should end other than thanking this person for the answer, but instead the answer is soon drowned out by the masses of people who love to babble. Not to say that MTBR isn't full of good information, because it is, it's just sometimes hard to pick out the good and bad when your first learning about mountain biking and have no knowledge base to work off of. In other words, posting in this forum with a lot people who have been riding for years (and spend more time riding then posting on a forum) rather than swimming through posts on MTBR was the right choice. In conclusion, babble, babble, babble.

[dgw2jr]

I feel I should throw out a MTBR disclaimer here. Take everything with a grain of salt when it comes to MTBR. The problem is that a lot of what is posted is by people who have no idea what they are talking about, but love to here themselves babble and think they know what they are talking about so they post all the time. Then people who are looking for answers read these posts and give positive rep to them because although the post may sound good, is completely wrong, but the people giving positive reps don't know this or they wouldn't be looking for an answer on MTBR in the first place. So in the end, MTBR makes babbling idiots look like they are reputable when they aren't which is a huge confusion to people who looking for an answer. Ever once in awhile, someone who does know what they are talking about posts and at which time the posts should end other than thanking this person for the answer, but instead the answer is soon drowned out by the masses of people who love to babble. Not to say that MTBR isn't full of good information, because it is, it's just sometimes hard to pick out the good and bad when your first learning about mountain biking and have no knowledge base to work off of. In other words, posting in this forum with a lot people who have been riding for years (and spend more time riding then posting on a forum) rather than swimming through posts on MTBR was the right choice. In conclusion, babble, babble, babble.

+1 - If MTBR is good for anything, it will develop your BS filter!

[jimithng23]

I had turkey warble with my Avid Elixir CRs. As much BS as mtbr is full of, this issue is legit. That thread helped me find the solution to my issue - new pads and rotor from Avid, and Avid picked up the tab!

If your brakes are making a minor squeal I wouldn't worry much about it as its likely a new set of pads would fix it. However, if your entire frame reverberates when you hit your brakes, like mine was, then you've got larger problems.

Gunchies advice on the fork is spot on. Nothing more to add.

Hope you get it all sorted out!

[Jazn]

I feel I should throw out a MTBR disclaimer here. Take everything with a grain of salt when it comes to MTBR.

Advice that should be applied to any forum

[Steve D]

It is a small plug with a flat top and pointy spike with an o-ring on it. It just presses in the top. The o-ring seals it and keeps it in place (except not yours). I have a photo of it but don't know how to post it. You have a fork with 'Motion Control' damping. You can adjust the floodgate with a hex wrench. This is the amount of compression you have when you lock out the fork. Even though it is locked out it will still compress a little bit on big bumps. You can adjust that little bit of 'slop' through that hole.

[zachjowi]

It is a small plug with a flat top and pointy spike with an o-ring on it. It just presses in the top. The o-ring seals it and keeps it in place (except not yours). I have a photo of it but don't know how to post it. You have a fork with 'Motion Control' damping. You can adjust the floodgate with a hex wrench. This is the amount of compression you have when you lock out the fork. Even though it is locked out it will still compress a little bit on big bumps. You can adjust that little bit of 'slop' through that hole.

Thanks for all of the information everyone. I stopped at Healthy Habits and they tried to get the plug from SRAM but they will only sell it in the sub assembly of the lock out knob for around $40.00!

I think it is the part right next to the blue piece shown here. http://www.ebay.com/itm/RockShox-Mot...item3cc3dc617c

Seems like a poor design considering mine popped out. Maybe I could find one on a trashed fork somewhere hoepfully.